120 | I'M COMING !

The hype is back ! Indonesia Fashion Week 2015 is coming at the end of February. Got my chance to became their official blogger of the 4 days event and it drives me overwhelmed last year. Got my chance to meet numbers of great peoples at the industry and took a little chit chat with each one of them, also got my chance to photograph numerous great collections from lots of designers like Itang Yunasz,

Dian Pelangi, Danjyo-Hiyoji, Deden Siswanto and so many more. Apparently, this year's Indonesia Fashion Week seems going to be bigger than last year since I've heard about there would be 2 runway stages this time and lots of international designers & new young promising designers as well. I just can't wait to have some visits to their shows next week !

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© 2015 by Reevo Saulus. All Rights Reserved

114 | HAMMER X DEDEN SISWANTO

Hammer X Deden Siswanto

Indonesia Fashion Week 2014

Photographs & Content Writings by Reevo Saulus

Meet the models: Todi Pandapotan, Han Chandra, Vembria Arby, Marshall Sastra

I'm back with report from Indonesia Fashion Week 2014 ! Since there are lots of great designers showing their collections last February, I took lots of photos, I need time to sort the photos, edit the photos, everything. So here I go again. A unique collaboration between Hammer with Indonesian designer named Deden Siswanto.

So, what to comment at first is probably how unique the fashion presentation is. With the concept of vintage freak show circus, models went down embodying characters from the freak show circus itself such as the siamese twins, the long bearded guy, and another character like strong man, lots of body arts.

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099 | DUNES BY OKA DIPUTRA

If some of you watched the 20th cycle of America's Next Top Model that had filmed in Bali, you may notice the rice paddy photo shoot in Ubud when the model had to pose with local Indonesian outfits. He's Oka Diputra, the designer behind the beautiful clothes on most of the models. I've been watching his collections since Indonesia Fashion Week 2012 and I totally fall in love in how he creates the strong silhouettes on most of his menswear collections.

I am back to Indonesia Fashion Week 2014, now as their official blogger so I had my chance get most of the access to go everywhere. With his thick Balinese accent, Oka has such a humble personality. I was a bit worried since I am not a good interviewee, but I kinda think I have to have some chit chats with him and finally, he was very calm & welcoming; then we had several minutes to talk about his life, America's Next Top Model, and his new collection entitled "Dunes".

Talking about his showroom in Indonesia Fashion Week 2014 is his new collection entitled "Dunes". Dunes itself is inspired by the movement of the several sand dunes around the world. Fabrics used on the collection is 70% polyester combined with 30% silk. Pretty friendly for Indonesian weather, eh ? What makes it interesting, when most of the designers are

hiring another persons or artisans to finish the embroidered details or some sort of stuffs. Oka confessed that he finished all of his dress details by himself and it took almost 8 hours to finish 1 dress. Oka Diputra is being amazing as always. Adore him a lot ! Such a good thing to be able to know him more in person. Oh, Oka Diputra is selling most of his collections in Beachwalk Bali and on-line at www.okadiputra.net.

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090 | DANJYO HIYOJI - EN GARDE

What can I say when the first model walked to Danjyo Hiyoji runway show ? Danjyo Hiyoji is FINALLY back to its own DNA. Well actually this is just my personal perception and aesthetics preference because I deeply in love with asymmetrical clothing constructions, rustic and a bit more into monochromatic. And here, Danjyo Hiyoji did all of those aspects. But for me, major reason why I love this new collection entitled "En Garde" is how they presence the collection. At the beginning, they are showing a theatrical act of 2 fencing athletes fighting on the runway platform. It is also shown that fencing is the main inspiration of Danjyo Hiyoji's new collection. The whole mood of fencing is shown as the model walked down to the runway wearing lots of face protectors and fencing swords.

Dan apa yang bisa saya katakan ketika first face Danjyo Hiyoji berjalan di runway ? AKHIRNYA Danjyo Hiyoji kembali ke "akar" nya. Well sebetulnya ini hanya persepsi dan preferensi estetika pribadi karena saya memang menyukai konstruksi pakaian yang asimetris, rustic dan cenderung monokromatis. Disini Danjyo Hiyoji terlihat melakukan semua itu. Tetapi untuk saya, alasan mengapa saya sangat menyukai koleksi Danjyo Hiyoji terbaru yang bertajuk En Garde ini adalah dari sisi presentasi & inspirasi dari keseluruhan koleksi ini. Olahraga anggar dapat dilihat sebagai inspirasi utama dengan dimunculkannya aksi teatrikal 2 orang bermain anggar sebelum bagian utama presentasi busana nya dimunculkan. Selain itu, aksesoris yang kerap mendukung seorang atlet anggar seperti face protector dan pedang anggar pun dibawakan model-model seiring dengan koleksi busana dengan palet warna putih.

As I see since the end of 2010, Danjyo Hiyoji created a soft color blocking collection; a bit into monochromatic. Then after that, they did lots of experiments onto their collection by doing printed watercolour illustration and their clothing structures. But in my personal point of view, I think Danjyo Hiyoji is kinda like back to its own DNA by doing softer yet strong outfits. And if there's someone asks if I'd buy or not to buy the item from this collection, I'll definitely buy this.

Seperti yang saya perhatikan pada tahun 2010 akhir, Danjyo Hiyoji mengeluarkan koleksi bernuansa color block dan cenderung monokromatis. Kemudian sempat beberapa musim mereka mengeluarkan koleksi yang lebih bermain corak, lebih playful dan eksperimental. Untuk saya, rasanya kali ini Danjyo Hiyoji seperti kembali ke awal dengan semua busana ini. Dan jika nanti ada yang bertanya apakah saya ingin membeli salah satu koleksi nya ? I'll definitely buy this.

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089 | PRIYO OKTAVIANO COUTURE - HERO

This "Hero" collection from Priyo Oktaviano is one of 2 favourite collections of my personal taste at Indonesia Fashion Week 2014. The presentation concept is more like a motorcycle racer, as we can see on the fashion film that has been played before the runway show. In this collection, Priyo made a haute couture collection for men and for me, this is such a smart step for local designer because as I know, the only one international designer who made a haute couture collection for men is Rad Hourani. But here, Priyo Oktaviano made a tricky twist and telling that men can looked very masculine in haute couture; or even mens skirt. Everythings are very detailed and in my opinion, this is what I could say as an international standard. But, Priyo did almost everything with local Indonesian fabrics; the famous Tapis Lampung fabric, which with its graphic pattern, it could create a beautiful visual aesthetic, and again I think this is not only clothes. This is wearable arts.

Koleksi terbaru Priyo Oktaviano ini adalah salah satu dari 2 koleksi favorit saya di Indonesia Fashion Week 2014 ini. Mengangkat tema "Hero", konsep presentasi Priyo adalah pembalap, seperti yang dapat dilihat di fashion film yang diputar sebelum presentasi dimulai. Di koleksi ini, Priyo berani membuat koleksi haute couture untuk pria dan menurut saya ini adalah langkah yang berani karena sepengetahuan saya hanya ada 1 desainer dunia yang juga membuat koleksi haute couture untuk pria, yaitu Rad Hourani. Dan disini, Priyo membuktikan bahwa pria pun dapat terlihat megah dengan koleksi haute couture dan penampilan maskulin dengan mens skirt. Kepiawaian Priyo dalam mengolah koleksi ini dapat terlihat dari koleksi nya yang terlihat begitu mewah dan menurut saya, ini sudah dapat memenuhi standar internasional. Tetapi, Priyo melakukan hampir semua dengan material lokal asli Indonesia yaitu kain tapis Lampung yang dengan pola grafis nya dapat menciptakan estetika visual yang sangat indah. Dan menurut saya, this is wearable arts.

When the show is about to finish, there's a model with gold gown and she covered her face with a helmet. It seems that everyone is trying to guess like, who's that ? And when the model open the helmet's shade, it's Indonesian supermodel Laura Muljadi and it seems like she is the "face" of the collection. Laura looked stunning in that gown. And at the end, the presentation concept is truly expensive. Choreography, music, make up, everything. It looked all good. This is just .. haute couture.

Di saat show akan berakhir, muncul seorang model dengan membawakan gaun berwarna emas tetapi wajahnya di tutup helm, perlahan lahan sang model pun membuka helm nya dan ternyata, seorang super model Indonesia; Laura Muljadi. Sepertinya, Laura Muljadi bisa dibilang sebagai "wajah" dari koleksi terbaru Priyo. Laura terlihat begitu anggun dengan gaun emasnya. Dan pada akhirnya kembali lagi, konsep presentasi ini terlihat begitu megah dan sedikit teatrikal. Koreografi, musik dan make up para model pun juga terlihat sangat baik.

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© 2014 Photography by Reevo Saulus. All Rights Reserved

088 | SAPTO DJOJOKARTIKO CULT COLLECTION

Elegant and classy. Two words that popped into my brain when I see the new Cult Collection from Sapto Djojokartiko. Repetitive usage of red and black colour palettes as the main colours at this collection looked really beautiful and fits pretty well in several Indonesian top models that out on the runway like Reti Ragil, Hege Wollan, Michelle Agnes & Dominique Diyose. As an additional, an adapted international catwalk choreography brings the show totally alive and that also means, photographers needs to pay extra attention to snap the model movements. At the end, Sapto made runway twist by sending all the models covered in red and black masks down to the runway.

Elegan dan berkelas. 2 kata yang kiranya otomatis muncul di benak seseorang ketika melihat koleksi Cult terbaru dari Sapto Djojokartiko. Penggunaan repetitif merah dan hitam sebagai elemen warna utama dalam koleksi Cult ini terlihat begitu indah dibawakan para top model Indonesia seperti Reti Ragil, Hege Wollan, Michelle Agnes dan Dominique Diyose, ditambah konsep koreografi catwalk yang menyerupai catwalk luar negeri pun membuat para fotografer harus lebih cekatan dalam mencari angle terbaik mereka. Dan di finale walk, Sapto membuat surprise dengan mengirim model-model ke runway dengan topeng yang juga berwarna senada dengan koleksi baju nya.

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087 | EASTERN ASIAN ACCULTURATION IN IVA LATIVAH

If we are talking about acculturation at the closing show of Day 2's Indonesia Fashion Week 2014, Iva Lativah could be the one who did it pretty well. She empowered the acculturation concept in her latest Muslimwear collection by combining the silhouette of traditional Korean attire, Hanbok and Muslimwear by using traditional Indonesian Batik like Batik Megamendung Cirebon and Batik Merak Solo. Also, Iva Lativah put an interesting colour blocking trend back to the runway and she's using some kind of silk or organza fabric, as I can see that the fabrics flews beautifully in the models' body. Meanwhile, turban headpiece is worth to try for Muslim women who loved to explore the way they dress themselves as an alternative.

Jika berbicara mengenai tema akulturasi di fashion show terakhir hari ke 2 di Indonesia Fashion Week 2014, Iva Lativah merupakan desainer yang berhasil mengeksekusi konsep akulturasi di dalam koleksi nya. Iva Lativah menggabungkan siluet kostum tradisional Korea, Hanbok dan busana Muslim dengan penggunaan kain Batik khas negeri Indonesia seperti kain Batik Megamendung Cirebon dan Batik Merak khas Solo. Selain itu, Iva Lativah menggabungkan teknik color blocking di beberapa koleksi nya dengan menggunakan material sutra dan organza, karena terlihat bahan-bahan yang dibawakan para model terlihat jatuh dengan menawan. Penggunaan turban sebagai pengganti jilbab pada wanita Muslim merupakan alternatif yang cukup menarik untuk dicoba.

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#086 | DIAN PELANGI - COLORFUL TRADITIONAL EMPRESS

Dian Pelangi seems having great exposures from the fashion scene lately because she offers chic hijab look for modern Muslim women. But what makes me adore from her is how she did such a great runway presentation with multi sequences runway slots and strong visual graphic as well. Focusing on the collection for now. In my point of view, I see Dian did an exploration about the beauty of Indonesian princess. As we can see in how she presence her collections.

She took the Suntiang Minang kind-of-thing up to the runway, a headpiece that is usually worn by Sumatran womens during their traditional wedding. And also, the pastel colored Batik fabric that reminds me of the famous Kain Pagi Sore from Betawi. And even though menswear is Dian's minor focus at the collection, I kindly can see that Dian made pretty memorable menswear look by pouring mosaic prints onto her mens blazer design.

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085 | INDONESIA FASHION WEEK 2014 SCHEDULE

Indonesia Fashion Week 2014 is flying high ! I kinda feel good because I got selected to be official blogger for Indonesia Fashion Week this year. This year's line up are going to be pretty exciting since there are various pret-a-porter Indonesian fashion labels like Danjyo Hiyoji, Kleting, Dian Pelangi, Lenny Agustin until these great Indonesian couturier like Priyo Oktaviano and Sapto Djojokartiko. I just can't wait to see their upcoming collections on the runway scene.

And also, I personally would like to say my early thank you to Indonesia Fashion Week team for choosing me as the official blogger. Writing is one of my sweet escape; the thing I'd love to do, especially fashion writing. Having the chance to write about the fashion week is such a new experience, so. And also, I designed a bigger version of the schedule line up for the upcoming 4 days of the fashion week-- just in case you need the bigger version !

066 | Kraton by Auguste Soesastro

As we know, there are many international fashion designers who brought the theme of minimalisms into their designs; Rad Hourani, Juun J, Calvin Klein, and many other. But in Indonesian market, I was wondering are there any local designers that could bring a clean design in a good level ? Until one day I had my chance to attend Indonesia Fashion Week 2013 last February and seeing this name. 

Auguste Soesastro 2013 Campaign

Meet Auguste Soesastro, a man behind a brand "Kraton". As a local Indonesian, I had no idea about his brand. I Googled his name and I was awed. He launched his brand in New York back at 2008-- which means, it's actually a good thing to know. Now, why I think he is special ? First, he did eco fashion; which is there are only few designers did that (Diane Von Furstenberg is one eco fashion designers I know; correct me if I'm wrong). I truly remembered he designed a clothing piece made from pineapple fiber, and also several items from another sustainable fabrics. Second, when I saw each of his items, the tailoring is very neat. Very well structured and everything is just so clean. His signature wide legged pants is my personal favourite of his design. And yes, he had so many international exposures. America to Europe, New York to Switzerland. And I am hoping to see his designs on more magazine editorials-- the one I saw was back at 2011 in Majalah Dewi. His dress were featured on the cover of Majalah Dewi, worn by Indonesian top model Paula Verhoeven. Simply high fashion.

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IT'S TIME FOR BALI

Another good thing from Indonesian designers. As we know, the 20th cycle of America's Next Top Model picked Bali as its international destination. I was thinking that it would be a good opportunity for local designers to get more exposure in international fashion scenes. And it's true.

Meet Oka Diputra, Bali based fashion designer had his clothes featured on America's Next Top Model. Couple days after I just realised that I watched his show on Indonesia Fashion Week 2013 last February. I personally love how he explore the pattern fabric without doing any complicated design of each pieces. You can see that famous Megamendung pattern on Cory Wade-Hindorff's photograph. It looked really great on his androgynous feature. It is simply fashion. 

INDONESIA FASHION WEEK 2013 - DAY 3 & 4

DAY 3        
FRIEDERICH HERMAN, SAMUEL WATTIMENA & OKA DIPUTRA   

FRIEDERICH HERMAN

The line up is actually a mixture from his previous Fall/Winter collection and his latest Spring/Summer collection. I’ve seen some of his signature black & white pants, asymmetrical dress and colorful pastel top. But I just fell in love with his design, remembering that he is pretty new in the industry.

SAMUEL WATTIMENA

The first model came out with a traditional Tenun (which I don’t know what to call) in his hand with dark-ish modified tuxedo look-a-like. A very good combination between contemporary design and local culture. The Earthy colors filled up the collection such as dark green, gray and light brown.

OKA DIPUTRA

Another black & white domination in a collection line up. Long pants with drapery effect, rolled up short shorts and I could totally say that this is my favorite line up for pants selection. The contemporary cardigan designs are just good to see if someone would dare to wear it on the street.

DAY 4                        

Tenun Ikat from West Nusa Tenggara is the main inspiration for the designer Ipoel Daeng Hasanung himself. A good combination between Tenun Ikat, white shirt and a tribal-like pants.

Meanwhile, senior fashion designer Poppy Dharsono went up with thematic collection “Redefining Heritage”, and the message that she’s trying to say to the audience is to be able to lift up the Indonesian culture through the fashion industry.

Brazillian designer Samuel Cirnansck brings the Indonesian local culture as I can see from his line up, there are several Kebaya inspired kind of gown and it makes wonder like, if there’s an international fashion designer did something very Indonesian, why can’t we lift up our local culture more as well ?

All image credits to Indonesia Fashion Week official website.