118 | JEANS JEANS

Long story short, these 2 looks from J.Crew for their next Spring/Summer 2015 collections are going to be my favourite. Those laid back looks; Polo combined with a simple shirt & basic navy pants seems really really humble and outgoing. But I'd really really go to the look 2 with that interesting fisherman hat and the jeans that looking really

bold yet cool at the same time. Yet, I really realize that there's no J.Crew outlet here in Jakarta. But I kinda notice this online webstore called Zalora lately. Because I just think that they got good items and it's kinda up to date. And I kinda think that I'll find these kind of jeans on their website, though !

114 | HAMMER X DEDEN SISWANTO

Hammer X Deden Siswanto

Indonesia Fashion Week 2014

Photographs & Content Writings by Reevo Saulus

Meet the models: Todi Pandapotan, Han Chandra, Vembria Arby, Marshall Sastra

I'm back with report from Indonesia Fashion Week 2014 ! Since there are lots of great designers showing their collections last February, I took lots of photos, I need time to sort the photos, edit the photos, everything. So here I go again. A unique collaboration between Hammer with Indonesian designer named Deden Siswanto.

So, what to comment at first is probably how unique the fashion presentation is. With the concept of vintage freak show circus, models went down embodying characters from the freak show circus itself such as the siamese twins, the long bearded guy, and another character like strong man, lots of body arts.

---

CLICK HERE FOR #INDONESIAFASHIONWEEK RELATED BLOGPOSTS

FOLLOW ME

Twitter | Tumblr | Pinterest | Instagram | Bloglovin

© 2014 Photography by Reevo Saulus. All Rights Reserved

111 | PARIS MENS FASHION WEEK - SPRING/SUMMER 2015

I can be really really subjective when it comes to Paris Fashion Week. Most of my favourite designers there; Yohji Yamamoto, Rick Owens, Juun J, Damir Doma, Alexander Wang, everything. For some of the audiences, Paris is getting bored by having its own style but for me, and next summer is, it's all refreshed.

There are too many too lists about my favourite designers on the city. It's plenty. But let me personally curate these looks based in how they pull their personal aesthetics and how I pull my personal taste. Paris next summer would be about unusual silhouette and casual laid back looks in my eyes. Here I go.

AND YES, AGAIN. Juun J rocked the runway to the maximum level for me ! It's an A game ! I can't stop watching his show on YouTube like, really. Look at those alienatic silhouette he did in every single pieces of his collections. It's a true surreal collections again. Those oversized items are everything !

I had lots of visual orgasm when the finale show and all the models went out with oversized shirt; Juun J's signature items with tons of printed handwritten typography combined with monochromatic line arts which is totally, totally soooooo my taste. I mean like, really ? He really wants me to buy one of the items. For sure.

My interest in Damir Doma has been increased once again with his latest collection. Loose shirt with wide turtle neck, oversized short with unique silhouette. Those are things I've lost in some of his past collections but now he's back. And I mean with those easy look and sharp cut, I wish I could get that loose shirt. The black one.

From a concept of a sleepwear, Christophe Lemaire went with another minimalism execution. Lots of pockets in white jacket creates a pretty voluminous piece, though. What else ? Lots of black, very casual, looking really light as well. And the pants' cut is something to watch because it's kinda unique, in my opinion.

Yohji-san. His works are more like lists of masterpieces. Something that I wish I would wear on my daily basis, if only I'm a fashion daredevil in the city of Jakarta. He never leave his personal story and put his Japanese heritage in each pieces he did.

Long haired models, tied up handkerchief on head, oversized buttoned up shirt and couple of espadrilles. It's something very Yohji Yamamoto. Something authentic that I don't know what to call, and I'm sure that I can't find it in another Asian designers.

Been a fan of Rick Owens in lots of seasons but next season is going to be a color explosion for Rick Owens. He did lots of colours. Yes, it is colourful-- in Rick Owens way. And somehow I can see that he's still getting really gothic even with colours other than achromatic palettes, though.

Some of the models down with fully painted body. It gets creepier, I could say. But the items he did are still great and again, he did another collaboration with Adidas. Just like the thing he did past seasons.

109 | MILAN MENS FASHION WEEK - SPRING/SUMMER 2015

Let's start with the calmest color; white. Neil Barrett did lots of whites onto his collections and still doing it repetitively for next summer. White varsity jacket, white pants, white boots, white hoodies, everything's all white. Seems like white is Neil Barrett's signature colour and he's undeniably good doing it.

Versace did white in richer way by doing it together with some gold bling-blings on several models. See through shirt, white pants with a touch of floral line arts pattern gives an emphasis touch on its look. Also, showing more skin is always so Donatella by doing a Greek God look in several items from the collection.

There are lots of beige in Salvatore Ferragamo. Mixed with short shorts and shoes in beige palettes. Along with Ports 1961, a classic sartorial look is also presented in beige colours with different tone for the footwear. A tricky execution, though. But it kinda attracts the attention pretty good.

Calvin Klein Collection by Italo Zuccheli. I personally see it more like, I've seen this kind of collections before but in a better one. He did minor colors like yellow and white as an accent for the whole look. It's pretty daring to see a light coloured sneakers, though. Pretty risky for some minor reasons but it's aesthetically good.

It's always good to see lots of casual looks like what we could see both in Gucci and Canali. Hat, cardigan and loafers are a good combinations for a total laid back modern preppy look. Meanwhile a simple white shirt and another light coloured beige pants are looking so casual along with the sling bag as Gucci did.

Meanwhile, Bottega Veneta did a quite feminine touch onto his latest collections. Wide neck t-shirt, cardigan, mens legging with espadrilles. It kinda reminds me a bit about a classic sailors in espadrilles but when it comes into the top looks, yes it's pretty feminine-- or it's because the models' effect, I can't say.

As a fan of wide legged pants, seeing lots of fashion house doing loose pants is pretty refreshing. Iceberg did the loose pants with oversized shirt & gladiators. Meanwhile Giorgio Armani went down with a bit more business look with those sleek blazers and tote bags.

Etro went with graphic loose pants; like florals and light chocolate stripes. Another casual classy look together with authentic Italian blazers. Also with Ermenegildo Zegna by doing a little bit different. A little bit more fabrics and light weight coat with the whole loose pants. Very comfortable.

Another black & whites for next spring in Italy and those stripes are gonna be there as well. Vertical stripes are on the top in several items at Emporio Armani. From bikers jacket into hooded shirt into coat into sweat shirt. Items are different but the stripes creates a pretty clean red string on the collection.

And what happened to Gucci is, they did major horizontal patterns on the collections like pants, blazers, shirts and suits. And, the sling bag seems the next "it" thing for Gucci because there are spreading in lots of the models' back.

When it comes to Etro, in how they pick their models, I can put my thumbs up because seeing pretty much of mature models walking down on the runway, I kinda understand that Etro is getting pretty segmented with mature audiences. But the question is, how well the mature audiences could rock these prints ?

Dsquared2 is getting less drama & bling blings by sending the models with these colourful camouflage prints in pink, purple, yellow and neon green. Pretty notable in the middle of the beach, I could say. And oh, those sandals & shades are quite fierce to avoid the sun & sands, though.

Antonio Marras goes to World Cup themed collections by doing lots of face prints onto the collections. Classic greens, classic colour mood, line arts. It kinda reminds me of Christopher Kane. But this one is more colourful.

Touch of 80s are also on the top in Dsquared2. Handwriting typographic prints in black over the neon green pants are beyond eye catching. It happened as well with the pink coats as well. So many classic colours. Keith Haring & Andy Warhol are also printed on the collections.

And so, these dynamic duo Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana has been way innovative since 2010 or 2011 or I forgot. How they did the menswear, how the concept went really well along each items, everything. And I think they stole the spotlight from the fashion week by taking Spanish Matador into the next level.

We've seen lots of three quarter length shirt; my personal definition of what Dolce & Gabbana is, and here it's there again. In a printed bull with some Victorian touch, Baroque-Rococo. And again, it's very Dolce & Gabbana. The printed suit is looking really good. One thing I noticed about them is their sharp tailoring in each suits.

Prada looked pretty refreshing as well. They went down with an innovative thing called stitched lines where we could see in most of the looks. It is actually a minor thing for me but the whole lines are pretty bold--

so it's getting visible, and I don't know why I see this very unique. Also, two toned blazers are unique and the sandals. Ah ! Sandals seems everywhere !

107 | LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN - SPRING/SUMMER 2015

As I heard about the London Collections: Men (LCM) Spring/Summer 2015, I wasn't that excited to see the runway pictures because London is very predictable couple seasons back by bringing floral prints to the runway. But things happened when I accidentally tracked down the show on Instagram.

Because FINALLY there are less floral prints for Spring/Summer ! If I could say, lists of designers might learned something from past seasons because the audiences are getting pretty bored with the prints. So what they did for next Spring is still about prints of course, but each designers got their own twists for their collections.

Let's start with Burberry. Christopher Bailey is pretty innovative in couple seasons back by sending down metalic, geometric print woven, even Batik in the past seasons. But now, Bailey did a pretty good exploration by doing denim on the whole collection.

The accesories designs are also improved with those fishing hat look a like, scarves & tote bag combined with handwriting typography & very fresh vibrant colors for Summer like light orange, ochre, pastel green and light red. I seems like Bailey always know the tiny spot for him to get noticed on the whole scene.

We'll be able to see mens skirt next season like; they are still there. KTZ brings down mood of a modern gladiator by doing sleeveless shirt, hand gloves, caps and mens skirt in a masculine cut. And the interesting thing is, KTZ did it in orange and black. It's kinda daring color combination but well, KTZ is being KTZ, though.

Things happened with Sibling by doing another gladiator silhouette. The items are pretty feminine like the feather necklace, mens skirt in light fabrics and somekind of laced tops. It's pretty feminine but it's all worn by some muscular models and they showed lots of skins & abs that makes is still masculine; or I could say it's another daring gender bending concept.

Down with its menswear debut, Jeremy Scott changed the famous label of Moschino into Fauxchino gold typographic prints in black outfits that makes it pretty noticed if you are wearing this in a public place. Jeremy Scott himself sticks with his womenswear aesthetics by doing lots of jewelries, bling blings and things.

Christopher Shannon is trying to get the attention couple seasons back. And the way he execute his latest collection is pretty fresh. He's doing a type as image prints on several items entitled the label itself "Christopher Shannon". And it creates a rustic, daring, rebellious kind of thing.

I noticed this 2 designers did the concept of maximalist prints but with their own design aesthetics. After last season's overexposed florals & laced, Sarah Burton did something really unique for the brand Alexander MQueen by doing an artsy line art prints, considering about the negative space of the whole look as well.

And again for Jeremy Scott, the King of Maximalism; I could say, he put almost like Coca Cola and the other summer drinks into a blazer and pants with obvious Brazillian summer kind of palettes, also with the classic smile icon printed down to several national flags.

These 2 designers has been noticed as the masters of gender bending. For me, J.W. Anderson almost dressed all these skinny male models in womenswear because his design is that feminine to be worn for a men. But if I'm talking about how artsy J.W. Anderson could be, he's the man. It's quite hard to combine the Japanese inspired pattern & a feminine masculine silhouette and he did it smooth and beautiful.

Seeing muscular black male model in one shoulder top and a long straight hair is very rare already. That's what Astrid Andersen did in her previous collection. And this one ? She went with Japanese kimonos, and a keso mawashi-- an apron that is usually used by a sumo wrestler. And fuck yeah, she execute it very well and bring it down to the runway !

Lots of sun in summer and spring of course; so that is why you might need a proper head cover. Designer James Long did hooded sweatshirt in a pretty light fabric for next Summer. Combined with DIY denim shorts look a like, lots of colors, long haired male models; pretty much like hippies in the sixties.

Lee Roach's strong silhouette has been his design DNA from his previous items as well. A monotonic colour in one look; light brown head to toe complete with the hoodie attached on its outerwear. Fresh read, black tiny belt, and a pair of moccasins. It looked like a uniform but he re-create the uniform concept itself into a more ready to wear attire.

No matter how good the prints I've mentioned before, London has came long way with its classic sartorial items. We still able to find these kind of items because these 2 designers Christopher Kane & Lou Dalton did some sartorial experiments in their collections. Like what Lou Dalton doing, a modified long coat with thin line checked pattern combined with a futuristic visor.

Also with Christopher Kane, I can see this one is his simplified version of his past collections. Those line arts are getting simplified on some of its trousers and blazers. Also the graphics are a little bit more minimal on its form, but a little bit twist he did by doing more colourful minor items used as an emphasis at the whole look.

104 | BLACK CASUAL

So this Summer, major brands that has been showing their collections on fashion week such Damir Doma, Dior Homme, Kris Van Assche and Alexander Wang. They still put several blacks on their collections. And here are my personal items picks inspired from their looks.

For me, shorts is always my must have item in almost any seasons; especially in summer because the striking hot sun, you may need to relax yourself by showing more skin. A polo shirt is a pretty good choice for a bit more formal casual look. Meanwhile t shirt and shorts is the laid back one. A bit touch of lightweight sneakers is one of my favourite.

Meanwhile a long sleeve top could be a good choice as an alternative for some peoples. My personal pick is actually a turtle neck long sleeve because that is my preference. But, a lightweight jacket creates bold and strong look if you combine with the strong Dr.Martens boots.

For a look that is a bit more laid back, I prefer to wear anykind of lightweight long sleeve or either a turtle neck for a night attire. An espadrilles shoes is still on the trend this season that could even give you more like a beach look in black. And I clearly see something different when a person came to beach with all black, though.

102 | JUUN J SPRING/SUMMER 2014

As a person who is working in creative industry, I personally seeking for something fresh in every creations. And to be honest, the Spring/Summer trend forecasting for Spring/Summer 2014 is kinda up into the mediocrity. Flower prints, pastel color blocking and suits & tie are everywhere. And I started to think in how an ideas could be reinvented and reinterpreted very fast; though I just think that fashion is running around like a wheel.

Asian designers are having their own spotlights couple years back. Yohji Yamamoto is up with his quirky aesthetics; combined with his Japanese heritage, meanwhile Miharayasuhiro is going down with some prints with modern pattern cutting. But for this season, Korean born fashion designer Juun J is my personal "it" designer at the moment. A creation combined from a gender bending issue and shape exploration as a main element of this collection I could say; it creates voluminous silhouette of human anatomy. It is kinda weird; in an artistic way.

101 | CARHARTT OPENING STORE

Jakarta - April 18, 2014. Metroxgroup is proudly announce the first Carhartt Work In Progress (WIP) Store in Plaza Indonesia. And I am invited as one of 2 bloggers; along with the edgy Arnold Teja, to had an interview with the Regional Sales Manager of Carhartt Asia, Sean Chan. It is started 10 years a go when the brand decided to expand their store in Asia, with Hong Kong as the first country in Asia to have this American workwear brand store. Later, another countries around are opening their own Carhartt stores; Taiwan, Singapore, Thailand & finally Indonesia. Coinciding with the first opening store in Jakarta, Carhartt WIP will present their latest Spring/Summer 2014 collection. There are warm tones of green, blue, yellow, with a bit touch of floral prints and camouflage as the

twist of the collection. Basically, it combines the classic Carhartt workwear DNA with a contemporary touch. Creating tough, clean workwear mood and absolutely a comfortable apparel. Then what makes Carhartt different from the other brands are; the durability of the products. Carhartt's product is a kind of product that would lasts up to 3 to 4 years, or even more because the quality of the fabrics. Or in short, Carhartt is more into timeless brand. And what I personally loved about the brand is, this used to be a workwear back to its original country America. But when it turned to Indonesia, the fresh mood spreads out in almost items; yet it is masculine. And it fits tropical weather like in Indonesia. That is the basic thing that I find pretty important, after all.

081 | NEXT WINTER IN NEW YORK ...

Richard Haines for Siki Im is such a perfection. I was freaked out inside when I saw Haines' illustrations appeared on the collection. This is so me--if I could afford it. And Alexander Wang ? 30 years old prodigy. Good music, good casts, good stage, good lighting, good outfits. Everything. Credits: 1, 2, 3

076 | SANDSTORM REFUGEE

Still with my all time obsession in Damir Doma Spring/Summer 2011, I designed my own outfit items, inspired by these items above. And yeah, I got my new sewing machine to prevent me from temporary boredom.

And seriously, it took me like almost forever to made these items. Yet I'll keep practicing, practice makes perfect. What else ? So far, I made the vest, drop crotch shorts and the tubular scarf. 2.5 yards of cotton jersey for all items. And yes, I feels like a refugee. A sandstorm refugee. Well; that's what's on my mind right now. And seriously, pardon me for showing more skin in this post. This is how I act to ignore the crazy society nowadays.

075 | FABIO COSTA

Project Runway fashion designer has never been this fine. Smile and meet Fabio Costa, Brazilian guy who stands on the runner up position at Project Runway season 10. And take a look in how he dress himself; which attracts my eyes more than the other contestants. He covered himself a lot in grey during the show; along with his notable accessories. Braided fabrics, drop crotch shorts, oversized shirt and a turban that makes him even looked like a Southern Dravidian. His signature fashion line Not Equal is actually really good. Modern fashion forward, yet still very quirky; and very Fabio Costa. Love. Credits: 1 | 2 | 3

074 | PARIS FASHION WEEK F/W 2014

So now, Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014. I kinda notice a significant change in these 2 designers I recently adore. Yohji Yamamoto has never been this maximalist by doing a lot of prints & patterns. Meanwhile for me, Damir Doma is kinda like back to his own root by doing more monochromatic and plain silhouette. I don't know but Doma did a bit better in clean aesthetics. No surprise from Rick Owens' show; I mean a literal surprise like what he did by sending real peoples & hanging musicians on the runway.

He added colours at his collections; a (dark) maroon. And I just love that thing, a handkerchief look-a-like that tied up to the model's neck. Then a colour combination I like-- black, white and one additional colour; which I can see it in Alexander Wang that always brings a minimalist statement, very Alexander Wang. And also, how Riccardo Tisci mixed up a total different stuff into a collection; Bauhaus lines & his childhood memories in how he loved basketball. A strong lines that decorate a simple white shirt is quite refreshing. Credits: 1 | 2

---

FOLLOW ME

Twitter | Tumblr | Pinterest | Instagram

073 | MILAN & LONDON FALL/WINTER 2014

Milan and London first. Paris is gonna be the last; since for me, Paris offered an interesting visual twists.

  M I L A N  

You are able to stick at your sartorial style in low temperature weather. Classic masculine, slick hair, suitcases, moccasins. Several stuffs looked quite neat and professionals. Grammy and Oscar kind of look. Not that much happened from its form. Oh well, Vivienne Westwood stick with her London-esque mood. Likey.

Personal selections: • Etro • Ermanno Scervino • John Richmond

  L O N D O N  

This Summer, London offered multiple or even outrageously maximalist prints. So next Fall is about to be a maximal feminism. J.W. Anderson continues like, well .. He is the designer. I can't say I dislike but that is something that I would not wear; those man skirt in skinny silhouette is more into piece of art. What else ? Burberry ? Check my previous posts. Astrid Andersen ? I never imagine an ethnic men got that kind of long straight hair, though.

Personal selections: • Astrid Andersen • Burberry Prorsum • J.W. Anderson

---

FOLLOW ME

Twitter | Tumblr | Pinterest | Instagram

071 | GEOMETRIC WOVENS

068 | RAD HOURANI #8

I posted a random tweet yesterday night, telling that if someone asks me to mention one designer that could bring a true genderless collection, then Rad Hourani is gonna be my answer. This Middle Eastern fashion designer started his career as a fashion stylist and he got no background in fashion. But his designs are true masterpiece; can you imagine that he did his first fashion show in Paris when he was 25 and the result is a big hit. 

This is the lookbook of the 8th collection of Rad by Rad Hourani; his unisex ready to wear brand line. And how he picked the materials is pretty diligent. Take a look at the lookbook shoots and how versatile a leather could be. How the designer build a masculine androgynous men by picking ethnic male model into it. I rarely see ethnic male model pose for an androgynous items; except Rob Evans in Givenchy S/S 2011 skirt. But here, the masculine vibe looked pretty strong on all the models. 

The items looked really good. Leather loafers with not-so-high heels, leather unisex dress, and unisex backpack. The pants' silhouettes are very well structured & neat. Both genderless & seasonless, two brand essences that Hourani tried to portray into his collections. So that is why he never write any Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter, though; instead, he listed down his collections as Collection #0, and so on. 

039 | Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2014

Back to Jakarta. Back to reality. I got hired. Fashion week is currently showing its womenswear in 4 capital cities but well, I kinda decided not to post anything related to womenswear on this blog. But apparently, that crazy Rick Owens just made a tremendous fashion show during Paris Fashion Week. As we know, Dolce & Gabbana sent real Sicilian peoples to their menswear runway in multiple seasons back. And for now, Rick Owens sent 40 step dancers to presence his upcoming collection to the runway scene. Captured by Kevin Tachman, showing that the beauty can shine not only from the size zero supermodels.

Divided into 4 sections, each group of 10 performed the step dance movements along with the synchronised music and lighting wearing the upcoming Rick Owens collections and also, the upcoming Rick Owens collaboration with Adidas is also shown on the footwear worn by the step dancers; making the stomping session looked very strong. 

Lately, the fashion scene showing zero size light skinned Caucasian models and even several designers didn't booked any ethnic models to their show. it is kinda unfortunate because beauty should be visible in any colours. Rick Owens break the boundaries by using real step dancers with real size body and beautiful exotic skin tones. Feels like watching Step Up sequel in Rick Owens mood. What a great way to celebrate the fashion diversity.